Hail damage to your car can be fixed with a mix of extreme cold and heat, This cause the metal to contract and then expand quickly, eliminating the dings.
Step 1 - Ice
Buy some dry ice from a dealer and keep it in an ice chest. Being sure to wear gloves, place a piece on each of the small dents cause by the hail damage. Put a towel over the pieces of dry ice and leave them in place for two minutes. At the end of that time put each one back in the ice chest.
Step 2 - Heat
Turn your hair dryer on full and hold close to each piece of hail damage. The rapid change in temperature will make the metal expand. Don’t be surprised if you hear a pop. The dent should could out quickly. Go one section at a time with the ice followed by the heat until all the hail damage has gone. If there are small cracks in the paint, rub lightly with extremely fine steel wool and then wipe with a damp cloth before allowing them to dry fully.
Most cars use rear drum brakes, which are operated by rear brake shoes. The disc brakes on the front wear down more quickly, but periodically you’ll need to replace the rear brake shoes. You can pay a garage to do it, but if you have some basic mechanical ability you can replace the brake shoes yourself.
Step 1 - Access
With the vehicle in Park, place wood chocks under the front of the front tires to stop the vehicle accidentally moving. With the lug wrench, slightly loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels. Jack up the rear end of the vehicle according to instructions in the owner’s manual. Use jack stands to keep the rear end properly raised so you can work. Loosen and remove the lug nuts and take off the wheels.
Step 2 - Drum
To get to the brake shoes you need to remove the brake drum. You’ll see that it will look quite rusted. To take it off, hit the drum with a hammer. Don’t be afraid of hitting it hard, you’ll need to do this in order to loosen it from both the wheel hub and the axle.
Wear gloves and try to work the brake drum off. You might need to hit the drum several times and keep working until the drum has been removed. Removing some of the rust will help, although you don’t need to take it all off.
Step 3 - Removing Brake Shoes
At this point you’ll need your specialized brake shoe tools. The brake spring tool should be used to remove the retaining springs that hold the brake shoes in place. There are 2 brake shoes and a total of four springs that need to be removed.
After you’ve removed and set aside the springs, take up the brake shoe removal tool and press down on the retaining clip on the brake shoes. At the same time you’ll need to take hold of the retaining pin that’s on the wheel hub assembly and turn it in a counter clockwise direction. As you do this you’ll loosen the brake shoes so that they come off the wheel.
Step 4 - New Brake Shoes
Put the new brake shoes in place, making sure they’re seated correctly. Turn the retaining pin in a clockwise direction as you use the brake shoe removal tool to pull up on the retaining clip and hold the new brake shoes in place.
Step 5 - Reassembly
Push the brake drum in place. You’ll need to hammer on it to secure it in place. Test with your hands to see if it comes off. If it’s not secure, keeping going until it’s firm. Put the wheels back on the bolts and hand tighten the lug nuts. Raise the jack and take out the jack stands and then lower the vehicle. Complete by fully tightening the lug nuts and then test drive.
For low-cost dent repair to your car, try dry ice. Park your car with the dent in the sun and let the dent and surrounding sheet metal warm up. Then, wearing protective gloves, put a small block of dry ice over the dent. The rapid chilling of the metal will "pop" the dent without scratching the paint. Do not touch either the dry ice or the extremely cold body of the car with bare skin.
If there is a crease in the bottom of the dent, or a body support member under it, complete dent repair with dry ice may not be possible. Make sure to follow all dry ice safe handling precautions.